After a horrible night with only 3 hours of sleep and bad dreams.
To clear the head, and before another day of reviewing reports and arguing
about scientific minutae, I headed up to the castle.
The castle is particularly
impressive, looming over the town, it's the perfect vacation retreat for evil
overlords, vampires, mad scientists or similar villains. It perches on the edge
of a sheer cliff (perfect for hurling
disloyal minions off), and has a dramatic view over Bled below. The castle was
built during the dark ages and was a strong hold for the Lombards - a warrior
tribe hailing from the Italian alps and famous for inventing the fashion for wearing socks with sandals.
The castle was occupied until the 18th/19th century, but has now
been converted into a restaurant, and rather nice museum, albeit filled with
clots of tourists wondering around looking for the restaurant bathroom. The
wine cellar was rather a delight, with a nice collection of local wines and docent
dressed as a medieval monk who will happily tell you about the delights
Slovenia has to offer the discerning alcoholic. Two other nice exhibits are a
working forge and a medieval/ renaissance printing press, with another docent
dressed in period clothing, who gives a great presentation, if you can get past
the crowds of clueless tourists.
Below the castle is the lake, which painfully picturesque, and
running around the lake (which takes 45-50 minutes, depending on how many clots
of tourists you encounter and have to slalom around) fast became a daily ritual
to keep mind and body together. This daily exercise is fighting a ferocious
battle against the threat of an expanding waistline, thanks to the good food
and wine that is ubiquitous in the town. It's also very nice to sit aside after
a day's meetings in a darkened room, arguing about scientific papers (using the
term "science" very loosely in some cases).
Breaking bread, in Bled
The food in Slovenia has been described as "hearty".
Because the country is so close to Italy and Austria, there are definitely
flavors of both countries found in Bled. Sausages and pizza are ubiquitous. At
the moment there is an "asparagus" festival and most restaurants will
have dishes that feature this particular veggie, including in rather strange
places ( eg a cream desert with asparagus). Mushrooms are also popular and I've
found several different mushroom soups of various levels of deliciousness, but
one of my favorites has been polenta covered in sautéed mushrooms, drizzled with
gorgonzola... yum. On fun fungi dishes, pasta with black truffles has been a
personal favorite here. As a vegetarian traveling to Slovenia, I expected
veggie food to be difficult to find, but actually it has been very easy, if
anything easier than in many places in the US. So far only restaurants in big
hotels have been deficient in food for veggies, probably because they cater
primarily to massive tour groups of Asian/Eastern European/Russian tourists.
Most restaurants in the town are very veggie-friendly. The nearest pizzeria
actually has a vegan pizza with tofu - I somewhat horrified my waiter by asking
for vegan pizza, with blue cheese on top.
The local desert is a kind of cream slice - a thick layer of
custard and cream sandwiched between wafer thin filo pastry, the whole thing a
3-4 inch cube of cholesterol and artery hardening gooeyness.
The two main local beers are Union (brewed in the nearest big
city) and Lasko, brewed in Bled since 1825. I'm not particularly fond of
pilsners, which seem to be the main varieties of beer here, but Lasko dark is
quite nice. The best drink, especially on a hot day, is "radler" which
is basically a lager shandy with grapefruit juice. Mmmm.
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