It's that
time of year when I head somewhere unusual to take part in the International
Whaling Commission. This usually involves three weeks of arguing in some remote
town about how many whales there are, threats to whales and dolphins, and the
Japanese Government's so-called "scientific whaling", program
although it has as much relationship with actual science as Sarah Palin has to nuclear physics.
This
year the meeting is in Bled, Slovenia. A beautiful little town nestling just a
hour or so's drive from the Austrian border, nestled in the Alps. The town is
on a lake that has a little island at one end on which is a ridiculously
picturesque church. Site was a pagan shrine to a goddess of fertility until the
700s, and then when Christianity come to the region it was converted to a
church dedicated to the Virgin Mary, rather ironically.
On
the opposite side of the lake there is a crag with a castle on top, that is
straight from gothic horror movie. Although it has to be said that in the
sunshine the orange roofs and spires are quite pretty, in a Dracula's holiday
home sort of way.
At the base of the castle is another picturesque church, next
to a vine-shrouded Bavarian-style "pub".
Around
the valley are snow-covered mountains,
the largest of which Triglav. The mountain is named after a flower, the triglav or golden horn flower. The golden
horn, according to legend is was mythical chamois mountain goat with,
unsurprisingly, golden horns. Its name in Slovenian is zlatrog, which makes it
sound more like a demon lord from Buffy the Vampire Slayer rather than a
dapperly decorated goat. When the golden horn is injured, where its blood drips
the pinkish-red trigly flower blooms. The blood of golden horn is also supposed
to have healing and other properties. Certainly "zlatrog" beer has
the magical properties of forgetfulness, tiredness and an urge to engage in
karaoke.
Up
in the mountains, besides magic goats, there are also 400-600 or so bears. The
region actually has one of the highest densities of black bears in Europe. The
fact that one of the main local crafts is bee keeping/ honey making might be a
coincidence, or it might have got out on the pooh grapevine that this is the
place to visit. On bees, one of the local folk arts is to paint pictures on bee
hive panels. Originally this was done to uniquely identify the otherwise
identical hives, but the craft it rather took off, and the area is famous for
the panel paintings - which often depict folk tales or legends, morality
fables, or sometimes even political satire.
Bled
has been a bit of a tourist spot since the Middle Ages, when pilgrims would
come here. It took off as a resort thanks to Arnold Rikli, a health nut who ran
a spa resort here in the 1800s, but not quite in the way you might think.
Rikli's health regime included naked hikes up the side of mountains and a diet
that would make bland seem exciting. If guests slipped from the spartan regime
and snuck into town for food or drink, they would be summarily expelled from
the resort. As travel to and from Bled could be difficult, especially in the
winter, this led to a lot of very wealthy tourists needing accommodation and
food, particularly food and drink that was the antithesis of the minimalist
diet that Rikli extolled. As a result several luxiurious hotels, restaurants
and a brothel were developed, which began to attract tourists of the non-health
nut variety.
About
Slovenia
Slovenia
was settled by the Romans (it borders current day Italy and Austria in the
west). In the 6th century, Slavic tribes moved into Slovenia and the country is currently 83% slavic in terms
of ethnicity. The territory was invaded or ruled by a number of countries
including the Hapsburg empire and until the mid 18th hundreds the aristocracy
was German-speaking, ruling over Slav peasants. The land was also part of the
Austro-Hungarian empire until that collapsed after World War I. During WW1
Slovenia was the site of a Austro-Italian battle front, as allied Italian
forces tried to push up into Austro-Hungry and pull troops away from the
eastern and western fronts. Nearly 1 million people died in the fighting that
the rest of the world has largely forgotten (bear in mind the current population of Slovenia is just 2 million, to get an idea of the massive impact this war had on the country). During the Second World War
communist forces in Slovenia held the Nazi's back from spreading into the
Adriatic Sea, and subsequently became a communist state, a province in
Yugoslavia the larger nation comprised of slavic speaking peoples (Slovenian,
Croatian and Serbian).
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